A 1795 off-white, wool men’s jacket and breeches with a dark tan silk brocade waistcoat; a black silk taffeta, beaded mourning bustle skirt and bodice from the 1880s; and three Christian Dior ensembles from the ’60s and ’80s—all found in the University of Virginia’s Historic Clothing Collection, housed underneath the Culbreth Theater. For Marcy Linton, associate professor of costume technology and manager of the collection, these extant garments are prized treasures, revealing the past through a fascinating medium.
“Since clothing was and is created to be worn, it can tell you the social status and occupation of the wearers and gives clues to the cultural mores of their time,” she says. It gives her a peak into their lives. “For someone like me, a maker and historian, being the manager of this incredible historic collection is very exciting.”
Her favorite piece in the collection is a stunning 1950s silk chiffon evening gown in pale yellow designed by Jean Dessès. While fingering through the pages of The Golden Age of Couture, Paris and London 1947–57, Linton came across a photo of the dress from its time period. “A pleasant discovery,” she says. “It was one of the first pieces that caught my eye and has remained my favorite. I always had a feeling it was special.”
Most pieces were donated by UVA community members and alumni, providing a glimpse into the rich history of the Charlottesville area and beyond.
This article originally appeared in the August 2024 issue.
