January means the days are short and cold. It’s time for winter warmers to keep me cozy. And in my book, there’s nothing quite like a hearty soup or satisfying stew to get the job done. Chowders? Even better.
I’m not terribly keen on watery soups, at least for cold-weather consumption. Heretical as it may be, I’ll pass on a thin chicken noodle soup, but I adore a beauteous bowl of Brunswick Stew, full of shredded chicken and veggies. Please don’t make it with squirrel, though. Apparently it’s what the original recipe called for. That and rabbit.
There’s some dispute of whether Brunswick Stew’s origins are rooted in Virginia or Georgia, the latter claiming it was first made on St. Simon’s Island in 1898. There’s even a statue there—of a giant pot on a plinth—to commemorate the momentous occasion. But in 1849, the Alexandria Gazette described Brunswick stew as “a genuine South-side dish, composed of squirrels, chicken, a little bacon, and corn and tomatoes.” Mysteriously, the debate rages on.
All I know is that Brunswick Stew recipe from Chowning’s Tavern in Williamsburg is a keeper. It’s on heavy winter rotation in my house. Admittedly I’m not sure where I’d find stewing hens the recipe calls for, so I defer to store-bought rotisserie chickens. I shred the meat and after simmering the veggies in chicken broth, I toss them together in the soup pot. And depending on how frisky I feel in the kitchen, I may tweak the recipe a bit. Green beans might get added, a glug or two of Worcestershire sauce, maybe some barbecue sauce. Even ketchup.
Fred & Elliott
Soups
Another favorite I’m obsessing on this winter is Blackened Chicken and Corn Chowder, Cajun Style that I stumbled on at Bonnie Blue’s in Winchester. I was terrified Cajunizing it would overpower the experience, but it was seasoned beautifully. It came with a side of cornbread, making the whole package epic. Portioned brilliantly, it had a perfect corn-to-chicken-to-stew ratio—not too thick, not too thin. It’s said that soup-meister Nick gets inspiration from old family recipes and newer ones he finds, and his repertoire is always expanding. It’s a good thing I don’t live nearby, or I’d be making a fool of myself daily. For now, I’m scheming on how I can finagle another trip to Winchester.
Quintessentially speaking, White Bean Soup with Virginia Country Ham will take a chill off any cold day. And who better to turn to than culinary superstar Patrick O’Connell, whose version is worth swooning over. This “Pope of American Cuisine” and founder, chef, and sole proprietor of The Inn at Little Washington, who spun what was once a simple country inn into an international culinary shrine, debuted his white bean and ham soup at his inn 40 years ago. It’s now being thoughtfully reintroduced on the menu at Patty O’s Café, across the street from its big sister inn. Still a classic, it’s a stick-to-your-bones creamy comfort kind of soup with just enough of an elevated flavor profile that makes it worth rustling up at home.
Whichever kind you fancy, bowls of steaming soups, bisques, chowders, chilis, broths, and stews make the heartiest of winter meals.
Chowning’s Tavern Brunswick Stew
Recipe from The Williamsburg Cookbook, courtesy of The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation.
1 stewing hen (6 pounds) or two broiler-fryers (3 pounds each). Or make it simple on yourself and use rotisserie chicken.
2 large onions, sliced
2 cups okra, cut (optional)
4 cups fresh tomatoes or two 16-ounce cans of tomatoes
2 cups lima beans
3 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
4 cups corn, cut from the cob or two 16-ounce cans of corn
3 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon sugar
Cut the chicken in pieces and simmer it in 3 quarts of water (or chicken stock or a combination) for a thin stew, or 2 quarts for a thick stew, until meat can easily be removed from the bones, about 2¼ hours.
Add the raw vegetables to the broth and simmer, uncovered, until the beans and potatoes are tender. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching.Add the chicken, boned and diced if desired, and the seasonings.
Note: If canned vegetables are used, include their juices and reduce water to 2 quarts for a thin stew, 1 quart for a thick stew.
Also note: Brunswick Stew is one of those delectable things that benefit from long, slow cooking. It is a rule in some Tidewater homes never to eat Brunswick Stew the same day it is made, because its flavor improves if it is left to stand overnight and is reheated the next day.
Yield: 8–10 servings.
White Bean Soup with Va. Country Ham
Recipe courtesy of Patrick O’Connell, The Inn at Little Washington and Patty O’s Café, Washington.
½ pound dried cannellini or great northern beans5 strips of bacon2 medium onions, coarsely chopped5 leeks, chopped and thoroughly cleaned1 cup chopped celery4 bay leaves4 quarts chicken stock, preferably homemade1 ham bone (optional)2 cups heavy creamSalt and cayenne pepper to tasteGarnishes (optional): shaved country ham, fresh cream (whipped), cracked black pepper, minced chives
In a medium saucepan, cover the beans with cool water and soak overnight.In an 8-quart stock pot, cook the bacon over medium high heat until browned. Add the onion, leeks, celery, and bay leaves and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.
Heat the chicken stock in another pot.
Drain and rinse the beans and add them to the stock pot. Add heated chicken stock and ham bone (if using). Simmer until the beans are very soft, about 1 hour.Remove the ham bone and bay leaves from the soup. Puree the soup in small batches in a blender or food processor and strain.
Return the soup to the heat and add the cream. If the soup is too thick, add more stock or cream. Season with salt and cayenne and optional garnishes.A note about serving from Chef Patrick O’Connell: “We pour the soup tableside over a bed of shaved local Virginia ham and garnish with fresh cream whipped with black pepper and fresh chives.”
Blackened Chicken & Corn Chowder—Cajun Style
Fred & Elliott
Soups
Recipe courtesy of Bonnie Blue’s Southern Market & Bakery, Winchester.
CAJUN SEASONING: You can buy your own Cajun seasoning, or whip up your own blend. It’s easy-peasy and much more tasty. This recipe calls for dried herbs and spices (not fresh or ground) and makes a gracious plenty. It’ll last for three years in an airtight container. Turns out it’s a delicious rub for meats and fish. Or toss it with veggies and a few glugs of EVOO before roasting for added zip.
2 tablespoons paprika2 teaspoons black pepper1 tablespoon onion powder2 tablespoons oregano1 tablespoon dried thyme (not ground)2 teaspoons cumin½ teaspoon coriander½ teaspoon allspice1 tablespoon parsley1 teaspoon cayenne pepper (adjust according to preference)½ teaspoon ginger1 teaspoon salt
Mix all spices and herbs in a bowl. Store in an airtight container after using.
FOR THE CHOWDER:
2–3 pounds boneless and skinless chicken thighs
3–4 tablespoons oil or butter
2 onions, diced large
4 carrots, diced large
4 ribs celery, diced small
1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning
½ cup flour
Shredded chicken
2–3 pounds potatoes, peeled and diced small
8 cups vegetable stock
1 pound frozen corn or 2 cans of corn, drained
1 cup roasted red and green peppers, diced small
1 cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon smoked pickled jalapenos (optional garnish)
Liberally season chicken thighs with Cajun seasoning to coat each piece. Then place chicken in a greased roasting pan and roast at 400°F for 35–45 minutes until cooked through. Remove from oven to let cool.
Dice veggies and set aside. Keep each separate.
Once chicken is cool enough to handle, shred meat and set aside.
Heat butter/oil in a large sauté pan and add mirepoix—diced celery, onions and carrots. Season mirepoix with 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning and slowly incorporate flour, mixing well.
Add shredded chicken to mirepoix and stir.
Stir in diced potatoes and cover with stock. Taste test and adjust seasoning accordingly, then stir in corn and peppers. Continue cooking until potatoes are tender and liquid is reduced.
Add cream and incorporate well.
Taste test seasoning again and adjust accordingly.
Rivah Queen’s Cornbread
A most delicious accompaniment to nearly any soup.
1 box Jiffy yellow cornmeal muffin mix
8 oz. vegetable oil (or 1 stick butter)
6 oz. canned creamed corn
4 eggs
One 8 oz. sour cream (don't use fat-free)
Maldon or sea salt
Preheat oven to 350°.
In a large bowl, mix together all ingredients. Resulting batter will be very soupy.
Pour batter into a greased cast iron skillet or square baking pan.
Bake at 350° for 30–40 minutes until top starts to brown and/or until the middle is set and a knife inserted in center comes out clean.
Lightly sprinkle top with Maldon or sea salt.
Let sit undisturbed for 5–10 minutes to cool slightly before slicing into wedges or squares. Enjoy.
