Tucked in Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains, Bath County becomes a breathtaking autumn wonderland—nature’s own masterpiece—each year. More than half the county is national forest, state park, or Nature Conservancy land, home to farms, fishing opportunities, world-class golf, over 100 miles of trails, and more. With a population of just 4,000 souls scattered across 540 square miles, this hidden gem offers something increasingly rare: true escape.
While other parts of Virginia are already surrendering to autumn’s colors, Bath County keeps you waiting. But it’s worth it. Thanks to the county’s elevation, fall colors peak in the first two weeks of October. When those leaves finally turn, they do so with a dramatic flourish that rivals any artist’s canvas.
The best vantage points for this natural spectacle include the drive itself. The scenic overlooks are just as spectacular, especially at Dan Ingalls Overlook and the local airport, where endless mountain vistas stretch before you in waves of gold, amber, and crimson.
Trails Through Autumn’s Theater
If a walk in the woods is appealing, fall hiking in Bath County is an immersion into autumn’s grand theater. With over 100 miles of trails crisscrossing the county, every skill level finds its perfect match.
Bear Loop near the airport offers an easy 3.4-mile journey along Warm Springs Mountain’s ridge, where you’ll get an education in conservation. The trail highlights The Nature Conservancy’s habitat efforts and controlled burns, with sweeping fall vistas at every turn.
For those seeking a moderate challenge, Deerlick Trail provides a 3.8-mile out-and-back adventure through Omni Homestead property. Multiple overlooks offer glimpses of the historic resort below, while the trail’s popularity among bird watchers adds an element of wildlife discovery to your autumn adventure.
Don’t miss Flag Rock Loop Trail—a steep, 3-mile challenge that rewards the determined with panoramic views. Blue Slick Falls is an easy 2-mile hike to cascading waters and connects to Douthat’s trail network. What’s more, Falling Springs Falls, an 80-foot high waterfall, is steps off of Hot Springs Road outside Warm Springs—no hiking required.
Or saddle up with Let’s Ride Horses in Hot Springs, a different way to explore kaleidoscopic woods. The valley views of endless gold and orange foliage give a taste of untouched wilderness that’s ever rarer in a modern world.
Where History Meets Luxury
The story of Bath County begins with bubbling springs and the vision of America’s first resort. The Omni Homestead opened its doors in 1760 as an 18-room wooden hotel, drawn by the naturally heated mineral springs of Warm Springs. Over more than 250 years, this grand dame has hosted 24 presidents and weathered countless chapters of American history.
Today’s Omni Homestead spans 2,300 acres of full-service luxury, complete with spa treatments, championship golf, and multiple dining venues. But the original draw remains: those mineral springs. Book a 50-minute soak in the modern, recently renovated versions of pools first built in 1761, and feel the stress melt away as you connect with centuries of travelers who found healing in these waters.
Historic Inns Loaded with Character
But in a place this charming, the digs don’t have to be built for the Founding Fathers to feel grand. At the Inn at Warm Springs, guests can stay in the old jailhouse, which is much cozier than one might imagine—stone walls, wooden ceilings, and a warming fireplace greet guests with historic flair and modern comfort. The inn’s Coffee Shop serves espresso drinks of every variety, along with saucer-sized chocolate chip cookies, savory scones, and out-of-this-world macaroons.
Off Sam Snead Highway and into the actual village of Warm Springs, you’ll find the Inn at Gristmill Square, a charming collection of restored 19th-century buildings that now house the inn, with rooms in a former blacksmith shop, an old hardware store, and more. Run by innkeepers John and Kate Loeffler, it’s storybook picturesque, complete with a babbling brook—Warm Springs Run—that meanders through the property.
Five miles southwest and nestled next to the Omni Homestead, the Vine Cottage Inn in Hot Springs offers an intimate alternative steeped in a century of hospitality. Dating to 1900, it features 10 well-appointed guest rooms, each named after flowering vines—crossvine, moon flower, and clematis among them—creating a botanical theme that extends throughout the inn.
Features include private bathrooms, inviting common areas, and a sprawling front porch that provides the perfect spot for unwinding. Innkeepers Dave and Tammy Hahn are known for their warm, welcoming atmosphere, exceptional guest services—and for rustling up delicious breakfasts that set the perfect tone each morning.
Autumn’s Liquid Gold
Bath County’s rivers run cleaner and clearer than almost anywhere else in Virginia. The Cowpasture River—Virginia’s cleanest waterway—flows as a tributary to the larger Jackson River, creating perfect conditions for both fly fishing and paddling adventures.
Fall fly fishing here transcends sport, becoming almost meditative. The season’s cooler temperatures create ideal conditions, while the changing leaves provide a stunning backdrop for casting lines. Local outfitters like Wesley Hodges’ guides offer expertise that transforms a fishing trip into an unforgettable experience.
For paddlers, Alleghany Outdoors provides kayak and canoe rentals along with guided trips of varying lengths. Glide through autumn-reflected waters while leaves drift overhead—nature’s therapy.
Artistic Inspiration and Local Flavors
For years, artists have been drawn to the landscapes in this special part of the state. And at Warm Springs Gallery, owner Barbara Buhr’s keen eye has assembled an enviable collection of regional, national, and international artists—from Charlottesville’s Karen Blair to New England-based Lynn Karlin and Henry Isaacs. Venture upstairs for lunch served off a charming garden shop, for fresh salads made from whatever’s in season. Enjoy your meal on the balcony and the same views that inspire the artists Buhr showcases.
Nearby, at Troddenvale at Oakley Farm, Bath County natives Will and Cornelia Hodges create artisanal cider from their small apple orchard, with loyal, locally famous bloodhounds at their side. Their rustic-chic Cider Barn opens weekends, pairing small plates with cider tastings. The cheeseboard alone makes the trip worthwhile.
Sweet tooths find their destination at Milk House Market, a gourmet grocery spot with fresh sandwiches, locally crafted beverages and snacks, and to-die-for milkshakes filled with Virginia-made ice cream—the perfect companion to scenic drives through sloping, polychromatic countryside.
Farm-to-Table Excellence
Waterwheel Restaurant, housed in the Inn at Gristmill Square’s century-old restored gristmill, has been Bath County’s premier dining destination since 1973. This farm-to-table experience showcases local ingredients—from smoked mountain trout and duck confit to Southern classics like shrimp and grits.
For the ultimate autumn escape, Fort Lewis Lodge & Farm offers luxury that rivals the finest resorts while maintaining the charm of a classic sleepaway camp. Set on a 3,000-acre working cattle farm, this multi-generational, family-run lodge limits guests to several dozen at a time, ensuring an intimate experience. Twice-daily bells summon guests to homemade meals, followed by swimming, kayaking, or time in the wood-fired sauna.
Your Autumn Adventure Awaits
Bath County in fall is more than a destination. Whether soaking in mineral springs that have welcomed travelers for centuries, hiking trails painted in fall’s finest colors, or simply sitting by a crackling fire after a day of adventure, this corner of Virginia offers something increasingly precious: the chance to slow down, breathe deeply, and reconnect with both nature and yourself. Come for the colors, stay for the experience, and return for the memories.
Crossing a mountain stream on horseback. By Erin Cowden
Fall Foliage Explained
The cooler regions of the East Coast are famous for their colorful autumns—trees with leaves that turn kaleidoscopic colors that signal fall. The process is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll, the green pigment that helps plants photosynthesize, and the subsequent exposure of other pigments already present in the leaf. As days shorten and temperatures cool, trees reduce chlorophyll production, allowing yellow and orange hues (carotenoids) to become visible. Some trees also produce anthocyanins, creating vibrant reds and purples.
This article originally appeared in the October 2025 issue.
