Sidecar elevates Roanoke’s burgeoning restaurant scene.
Sidecar welcomes diners with an established presence that makes it feel like an old friend. But this downtown Roanoke restaurant is relatively new to the culinary scene. Opened in 2020, just weeks before the city shut down, it’s finally getting the recognition it deserves.
Housed in a renovated 1920s building which lends built-in character and charm, it has a stylish but understated interior. A little bit Europub, a little bit fine dining, Sidecar features an expansive bar running the length of the restaurant with antique, wooden library ladders, which bartenders climb to reach the rare top-shelf bourbons.
“You can just have a drink and a small plate at the bar, or a fine dining experience if that is what you’re after,” says general manager Scotlan Frayne. “I think that’s why we have a core of regular customers, which has been a pleasant surprise.”
Those regulars are perhaps owed to the ambitious and expansive menu, which veers into every corner of Europe, with French, Italian, Belgian, Spanish, and German influences. You could dine at the restaurant every day for a week and never have the same food journey. The best way to enjoy Sidecar is with a few friends, sampling from the small plates and dividing up the more substantial entrées—sharing in the experience, as I did.
Our foursome sat at one of the sink-in booths, a cozy spot that draws the pleasant hum of energy from the parallel bar. We began with the Bavarian pretzel and the cauliflower au gratin. The pretzel is giant, and reminiscent of ballpark fare, but with a deeper flavor and elevated sides—the silky beer cheese puts any concession stand cheese to shame, and the hot stone-ground mustard was a tart yin to the yeasty pretzel’s yang.
We flagged down the server for more beer cheese to polish off the dregs of the pretzel while digging into our salads, a delightful mash-up of earthy roasted beets, creamy goat cheese, and oranges over greens—with toasted almonds for crunch—which felt just right. The cauliflower tastes better than any vegetable has a right to, with its crunchy, meaty florets, and rich, sharp cheddar cheese sauce.
Sidecar’s Moroccan chicken thighs—slow roasted and impossibly tender—are complemented with local, roasted seasonal vegetables, pearl couscous, and a white wine demi-glace. It’s comfort food that hits just the right tangy notes and made everyone in our group a fan. Don’t skip the frites—cooked in duck fat—that come with a choice of homemade sauces, like curry ketchup. This old favorite has a subtle kick you can’t quite put your finger on. We also went for the foie gras and lamb meatballs, which were melt-in-your-mouth delicious and perfectly complemented by the cream sauce and fresh pasta.
Portions are hearty. And while we were anxious to go deeper into the menu, we were all pleasantly full. One thing was clear—for every food mood, there is a Sidecar answer.
Chef Brad Deaton draws on his classical training to put his own stamp on traditional European dishes, stretching his potential with seasonal fare such as a responsibly sourced seared foie gras, inspired by pineapple upside-down cake, bringing a sweet and savory marriage to the French staple.
Deaton worked his way up in supporting roles at other fine dining spots in the Star City, including Frankie Rowland’s and the now-shuttered Blue Apron. Owner Jason Martin met with Deaton when he was developing the concept for Sidecar, and it was the right time for Deaton to take the helm.
If you are in the mood for cocktails when you visit Sidecar, it won’t disappoint. I had the New-Fashioned, a riff on the classic old fashioned, with orange-infused honey, double-oaked bourbon, and Angostura bitters. The honey rounds out the smokiness of the bourbon, making for a smooth drink that goes down so easily you’ll find the single, oversized ice cube clinking in your glass before you’re ready. It was our table’s favorite, and we found out we’re in good company—it’s one of the most popular drinks on the menu, along with The Crown Jewel, whose indigo-infused gin gives the drink its purple hue, which always elicits an oooh, what’s that? as the bartender pours it in a coupe.
Sidecar offers a curated and rotating list of imported European beers on tap that would delight the most discerning beer geek. There’s the Leipziger Gose, a sour ale with coriander and sea salt from Germany, and the Mahou IPA, an India pale ale from Spain that my husband—the beer drinker among us—found refreshing, pleasant, and a little different from the choices he has at most area restaurants.
A thoughtful wine list, a mead offering, ciders, and a creative non-alcoholic cocktail list complete the drink menu, serving imbibers and the sober-curious equally well. The Salt Bae, with muddled cucumber, grapefruit soda, lemon, and lime with a salt rim, does double duty. It’s refreshing as is, but I may consider asking the bartender to add vodka on my next visit.
The vibe gets lively as weekend evenings roll towards midnight in the bar, as a DJ spins vinyl at the restaurant’s entrance. Those wanting a quiet, more romantic setting can choose to sit in the adjoining dining room, which has a more intimate feel.
Martin says the biggest compliment from guests is the comment, “I don’t feel like I’m in Roanoke right now.” That was his mission—a respite from the ordinary, a haven from the stress of life that greets one when they step out of Sidecar’s door onto First Street. But maybe Sidecar mirrors what Roanoke is becoming—a hip destination, a buzzy place to be as it ascends “best of” lists again and again, welcoming foodies and outdoor enthusiasts from across the world to its picturesque mountains, rugged bike trails, and top-drawer restaurants. SidecarVa.com
This article originally appeared in the October 2022 issue.
