–By Clare Osdene Schapiro
I’m as enchanted as the next person by a shelf full of glistening jars of pickles. To me, it’s like perusing a high-end jewelry store. Gorgeous gem-tone wares, carefully arranged to show varieties—but even more, sheer abundance.
As a young woman obsessed with cooking, I briefly delved into the world of “canning” pickles. It produced a bumper crop from an overflow of garden cucumbers. It also took up most of a day—lifting, sterilizing, and processing everything—not to mention the trouble and expense of finding just the right canning jars for my aesthetically pleasing production. Truth be told, I got bored of them before my larder was bare—even having generously given them to anyone who crossed my path. In the end, many met their sad finale in the trash bin.
When it comes to what I make these days, however, it’s a completely different story—and a much happier one. Fast forward to the glorious world of quick pickles: My first exposure to my friend Pooh’s delightful okra pickles. Imagine my shock when I saw him enter the kitchen with a full basket of okra from his garden and produce a new batch in about five minutes. “Are these the wondrous okra pickles we’ve been eating all weekend?” I asked in gob-smacked amazement. No verbal reply was necessary as he looked at me with sheer pity.
So what’s the deal? Quick pickles and refrigerator pickles are just a moment away and are bound to get gobbled up long before your appetite for them withers on the vine. Furthermore, almost every vegetable that comes your way is amenable to this technique and will make even the most paltry offering of grocery store cheese and crackers magically transform into a toothsome charcuterie platter.
I’ve found that quick pickling is sort of a gateway drug. Once started, it’s hard to stop. My first foray was to attack a red onion. I first soaked the thinly sliced onion in icy cold salted water for about 10 minutes to make it more digestible. After discarding the soaking water, I mixed up a half cup of cider vinegar, the same amount of water, a tablespoon each of sugar and salt, poured it on top, and let it sit there for an hour while I threw some burgers on the grill. Talk about a taste sensation! Realizing it was the perfect topping for any burger, sandwich, or salad, I was hooked.
In short order, I remembered my father’s favorite cucumber salad. I thinly sliced two English cucumbers, salted them, and let them drain on paper towels. Meanwhile, I combined a half cup of Champagne vinegar, a tablespoon of sugar, and a minced garlic clove, heating them until just boiling. Once cooled, I combined the cucumbers, some of my leftover onions, and several ice cubes with the dressing, and tossed in a couple of teaspoons of chopped fresh dill. After an hour in the fridge, it was all ready to go.
Which brings me back to my guru, Pooh, and the okra. Most anything can be turned into refrigerator pickles within 24 hours. First, make the brine by combining the vinegar, salt, and sugar and bring to a boil. Add cold water and chill while you stuff the okra—or cauliflower, or beans, or, well, anything—into a quart jar. Add coriander and whole mustard seeds, a couple of peeled garlic cloves, peppercorns, red pepper flakes, maybe some dill fronds, and anything that strikes your fancy. Cover with the brine, cover the quart jar, and let sit in the refrigerator for 24 hours before serving.
Then, revel in your accomplishment. No one need know how fiendishly easy it was.
This article originally appeared in the October 2024 issue.
