The great bagel debate. A hot button argument over breakfasts across the country comes down to this: what makes a bagel a real bagel, and can one be found anywhere outside of the Big Apple? Luckily, Virginia bakers haven’t been deterred by naysayers and New York bagel sticklers yet—they, and their bagel dough, rise to the occasion.
Nate’s Bagels in Richmond was inspired straight from the source. Sara Wignall, director of operations and development, explains that founder Nate Mathews “spent quite a bit of time in New York and New Jersey knocking on doors and getting into bagel shops” to learn the craft. The shop’s bagels are made with an 18-hour slow proof—the practice of adding water to the dough in small amounts over a long period of time—in the walk-in cooler, followed by a rolling boil in a 40-gallon kettle and stone-baking in a massive oven, about the size of a small sedan.
A slow proof is also key at Bagel Uprising in Alexandria. “The secret is not the water, right?” says owner Chad Breckinridge, referring to the theory that New York bagels are special because they boil in NYC water. “I think the secret is to let the dough rest in the fridge for 24 to 48 hours.” After the long proof allows the yeast and malt powder to really flavor the dough, Bagel Uprising follows the standard method of boiling and baking.
Yet, another bagel spot in Harrisonburg, Mr. J’s Bagels and Deli, does not boil its famous bagels, rather baking them in a steam oven from New Jersey. While a no-boil formula is heretical to die-hard bagelites, Mr. J’s has nevertheless developed legions of loyal fans. Could it be that the Jersey-bred steam oven effectively simulates boiling? Perhaps. But owner Angela Dean says the use of fresh ingredients and the menu’s classic Jersey egg bagel are big draws, too.
Despite the clash surrounding what makes a proper bagel, all these shops agree: Virginia loves everything (bagels, that is). “Everything seasoning has got its own following,” Wignall says.
Mr. J’s Italian bagel sandwich.
Nate’s Bagels’ Classic Breakfast-Bacon.
This article originally appeared in the October 2024 issue.
