Now that summer’s approaching its curtain call, we can drop the charade: the season was a sweltering, sticky mess not worthy of its devout following. Sure, there are backyard barbecues and occasional fireworks, but it doesn’t stand a chance compared with autumn—gloriously cool autumn.
One of the most tantalizing qualities of this vibrant season is its wine and food pairing possibilities. Put away your riesling and sauvignon blanc; it’s time to bring out the big guns. Rich, earthy, seasonal ingredients beg for full-bodied wines. Though there’s no right or wrong way to mix and match, we asked Kristen Gardner Beal and Lance Lemon, owners of Penny’s Wine Shop in Richmond, for some expert guidance.
Rule number one: there are no rules. “Don’t ever let food and wine intimidate you,” Beal says. And Lemon adds, “Keep it fun, keep it simple, and keep experimenting! Don’t overthink it.”
One way to hone your palate is to stop by a local wine spot and enjoy a flight. That way, an expert is just across the bar, ready and willing to answer any questions you may have. “It’s just nice to try things, talk through the flavors and the history, and enjoy some self-discovery,” the duo adds.
In addition to a cornucopia of flavorful local produce, Virginia is home to incredible wineries. Penny’s often works closely with Common Wealth Crush Co., Early Mountain Vineyards, Blenheim Vineyards, Patois Cider, and more. “The Virginia wine scene has a newfound energy: it’s giving, ‘Put a little respect on our name,’” Beal says. “There is a true community here, and you can tell everyone is working together to bring the best out of what Virginia wine has to offer.”
When it comes to food and wine pairings, there are endless choices. Here are a few ideas to get the corkscrew turning.
For those unafraid to mix high- and low-brow, opt for a flute of Champagne alongside some homemade fried chicken. Crispy, crackly chicken parallels Champagne’s fizzy pop—it’s the punchy flavor duo you never knew you needed. The sparkling wine’s acidic tendencies help slice through the rich fat of the chicken, leaving nothing but goodness on your tongue.
If you’re hosting a dinner party and looking to impress guests with your pairing prowess, pick up a bottle of petit manseng—a Virginia darling—to serve alongside grilled fish. “The style, body, and texture complement grilled fish incredibly well,” Lemon says. Typically grown in southwest France, petit manseng is a dry white wine bursting with notes of candied fruit, like peach, citrus, pineapple, honey, and more. These vivid flavors help brighten the buttery nature of the fish (bonus points if the fish is encrusted with local herbs!).
Nothing spells autumn like butternut squash. Whether roasted, toasted, or puréed, this cool-weather staple invites you to enjoy it with a glass of nebbiolo. Commonly found in Italy’s Piedmont region, this red grape is one of Virginia’s hidden gems. Powerful, earthy, and rich, nebbiolo’s dark fruit flavors and notes of anise add a warming spice to any butternut squash dish.
“Virginia wines and wine regions are on the rise,” the couple asserts. “When we speak to winemakers, vineyard managers, and friends in the industry, they love the opportunities that Virginia wine offers.”
As you plan your menu (and break out your jackets), whether it’s for a casual get-together or a high-end dinner party, don’t forget to take advantage of what lies in your backyard: seasonal produce, intriguing Virginia wines, and adept wine professionals ready to guide you on your tasting journey.
Champagne & Fried Chicken
Thibaut-Janisson —Blanc de Blancs Brut
While this bottle is not a true Champagne, France native, it was crafted by one. Winemaker Claude Thibaut brings his French expertise in sparkling wine to the Blue Ridge Thibaut-Janisson Winery, creating this brut wine with pear and apple notes, a delicious companion to indulgent Southern fried chicken.
Petit Manseng & Grilled Fish
Common Wealth Crush Co. —
2022 Teacher’s Pet-It Manseng
Born from grapes perfectly suited to the Virginia environment, petit manseng is a fuller-bodied white that is often served as a dessert wine but also complements the buttery savoriness of grilled fish. Common Wealth Crush Co.’s 2022 variant blends with 5 percent chardonel grapes in a delightful twist.
Rosé & Seared Scallops
Lightwell Survey —Redirecting the Light Rosé
Lightwell Survey is ever evolving its signature rosé, a mixture of vidal blanc, chambourcin, and other hybrid grapes, including subtle touches of traminette. The textural yet delicate composition evokes cherry and strawberry flavors, a lovely fruity side to a seared scallop topped with butter and shallots.
This article originally appeared in the October 2024 issue.
