Truly Unique

VMFA acquires floral choker by celebrated Belgian jeweler Philippe Wolfers.

Courtesy Virginia Museum of Fine Arts

Renowned Belgian jeweler Philippe Wolfers (1858–1929) designed just 131 unique pieces in his lifetime. Among them is the Wisteria “Glycines” Choker, one of the artist’s most impressive pieces. In January, this rarity found a new permanent home at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts in Richmond. 

Wolfers, whose father, the Belgian goldsmith Louis Wolfers, founded the Wolfers Frères Company in Brussels in 1842, designed and crafted the necklace between 1900 and 1902. He used carved, iridescent tourmaline, which displays green and pink hues in singular stones, as well as pastel colored  opals to create delicate, floral swags. The green and purple enamel leaf clusters complement the pale colors of the wisteria. The back of the choker is marked with the jeweler’s initials and “Ex: Unique” to convey “Exemplaire Unique” (English: “Unique Example.”). The Wisteria “Glycines” Choker  was purchased by Wolfers’ wife, Sophie Willstädter, who also purchased a number of his most impressive pieces to ensure his best works remained in the family. 

VMFA director and CEO Alex Nyerges calls the choker “one of the most exquisite examples of Art Nouveau jewelry in the museum’s collection” and a “rare find amongst Wolfers’ existing creations.” The choker is now on view in VMFA’s French Art Nouveau Gallery within the Lewis Decorative Arts Galleries. VMFA.com


This article originally appeared in the April 2021 issue. 

Markus Schmidt
Markus Schmidt is a former associate editor of Virginia Living and Virginia politics reporter for Cardinal News. A native of Germany, he is now the Virginia politics reporter for the Virginia Mercury.
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