As the placid water of the James slips past in sun-dappled silence, time seems to loosen its grip. A float along Virginia’s longest river with the James River Batteau Co. is not only a respite from the frenetic pace of modern life, but a chance to drift—literally and figuratively—into Virginia’s storied past. The experience, led by the young, engaging, and deeply enthusiastic co-founders Will Smith and Will Cash, is a distinctive blend of leisurely boating, appreciation of Piedmont Virginia’s natural beauty, historical education, and musical and culinary delectations.
The journey begins in downtown Scottsville, where Smith meets the guests—groups of up to eight—and leads them on a short drive down Main Street to the river’s edge. Waiting at the launch is Cash, making final preparations aboard one of the company’s handmade batteau, the slender wooden vessels once vital to commerce on the James. As the boat glides from shore, Smith takes position at the prow, guiding the rudder and launching into the story of the batteau. Cash, at the stern, propels the boat forward with a long, wooden pole, in smooth, practiced movements that evoke visions of Venetian gondoliers. The pair trade off storytelling, immersing guests in the manifold chronicles of the river’s course.
Smith and Cash’s passion for the batteau—a flat-bottomed river boat specifically designed for the James River’s shallow profile—is unmistakable as they embark on a fervent recounting of the special place it holds in Virginia’s early history. The two first encountered this unique craft through the annual James River Batteau Festival, in which a flotilla of these historic boats travels from Lynchburg to Maidens Landing near Richmond. Inspired, they launched a company to share the remarkable experience with others. They built their first two batteaux themselves, staying true to original construction methods with white oak boards, traditional boat nails, and minimal screws.
Guest enjoying a sunset cruise with food prepared by Chef Sarah Rennie.
Co-founders Will Smith and Will Cash.
The river makes for both stage and character. Lined with open farmland and largely untouched by development, its banks create a natural corridor that feels suspended in time. Guests float through landscapes much as batteaumen did centuries ago, when the James was the region’s primary highway. Developed in 1775 to transport tobacco and goods along the James, the batteau revolutionized commerce. Thomas Jefferson was even present at its first launch. Its heyday stretched from the late 18th through the mid-19th centuries. Most batteaumen were enslaved; the work could be grueling but offered more freedom than fieldwork. The trip downriver from Lynchburg might take a week, but the return trip—hauling goods upriver from Richmond—could last twice as long.
The batteau itself is a quiet feat of engineering: when loaded with 11 hogsheads packed with 1,000 pounds each of tobacco, it sinks no more than 13.5 inches into the water. Narrow, shallow, and swift, it moves with a surprising grace. But after the Kanawha Canal opened in 1841, allowing for deeper-hulled boats, the batteau fell into disuse—until now, as lovers of the craft reignite its centuries-old legacy.
Midway through the float, the boat anchors. Smith’s acoustic guitar notes dance across the water while Cash serves beautifully composed charcuterie boards amid candlelight glowing from rustic glass lanterns. The atmosphere is striking in its singularity—arcadian, tranquil, kissed by twilight air, and heavy with the mystical feeling of being tied to those who once roamed these waters long ago. Though the experience is peerless, it’s also refreshingly unpretentious—earnest conversation, soulful music, and a shared gratitude for the natural world color the mood of the evening. Guests chat, nosh, and soak in the serenity of the setting.
Eventually, the boat turns downstream, back to where the voyage began. Some guests try their hand at poling—though, really, it’s much harder than Cash makes it look—and others sit back, letting the current carry them home.
Catching a River Ride
James River Batteau Co. offers two-hour cruises from April through mid-November, with afternoon and sunset options. Periodic “Farm to Batteau” dinner cruises feature seasonal meals prepared over an open fire by private Chef Sarah Rennie of Two Fire Table. To start your own journey upriver, visit JamesRiverTour.com.
This article originally appeared in the August 2025 issue.
