Discover Irvington’s Charm

It’s easy to spend an unforgettable day (or week) in Irvington, a quiet town of fewer than 500 residents just off the Rappahannock River, and once you do, you’ll find it hard to leave. I’ve been visiting Irvington with my family for a decade now—just a blink of an eye compared to how long some of the regulars have been making their way, by car or by boat, to this charming riverside town. Over the years, we’ve grown to love the slow pace and beautiful scenery, and we’ve been treated to new shops and exceptional seafood-focused restaurants. Here are some of my top recommendations for how to spend time in this charming waterside destination.

Finding Your Perfect Base

If you’re at all familiar with Irvington, the Tides Inn likely features largely in your vision. Since 1947, the waterfront resort has been a destination for travelers. With its full-service spa, par-72 championship golf course, and waterfront pool, a stay at the Tides is both lavish and tranquil. But what really sets this resort apart are the experiences, which harness the inn’s on-staff experts to provide artistic outlets and education for guests, whether it’s a watercolor painting lesson on the water with resident artist Theresa Schneveis or a crabbing expedition with ecologist Will Smiley. And fortunately, these activities are available to book even if you’re not staying at the Tides.

While I love popping by the Tides Inn to enjoy the one-of-a-kind experiences, when I stay in the area, I’m usually traveling with family and friends, and renting a house gives us plenty of room to spread out and enjoy our time. Luckily, there are plenty of great options on Airbnb and VRBO, from The Salty Captain Cottage, a well-appointed cottage for six with lots of cute little touches to make your stay feel special, to the magnificent Topside at Stephen’s Point, a stunning 2-acre, mid-century poolside retreat built by the former owners of the Tides Inn. Located on Carter’s Creek, it sleeps five, features stunning panoramic views, and includes a game room that’s perfect for kids. A must for lovers of mid-century modern architecture and antique furnishings, Topside is a waterside oasis, complete with bespoke services, including catered meals and dock-to-door oyster delivery from Steamboat Wharf Oysters. If you’re looking for a more traditional bed and breakfast, check out Hope & Glory Inn, a charming option for couples that boasts a saltwater pool, a small Hemingway-esque bar, fine dining at The Colonnade, and a one-of-a-kind outdoor bathtub for a moonlit soak.

Boutiques, Antiques, and Local Finds

When in Irvington, my family likes to prioritize R&R—simply enjoying the water and the gorgeous natural scenery—so commerce takes a bit of a back seat, but there are some noteworthy shops to explore on rainy days or when you’re feeling restless. August Table is one of my favorite spots for finding gorgeous block print linens and Danica heirloom tableware. The Dandelion is a sweet shop for resortware and gifts with warm, helpful concierge service housed in a former parsonage built during the steamboat era. For a more contemporary fashionista, an Irvington outpost of Richmond’s Dear Neighbor, a chic boutique for new and vintage apparel, cosmetics, and accessories. But my favorite is a long afternoon at the nearby Kilmarnock Antiques Mall, which is crammed with ephemera from bygone days, including the largest collection of oyster plates for sale in the country.

Small-Town Discoveries

After starting the day with a latte and a glance at the visitor’s map at The Local, a few of our favorite activities include perusing the walls at fine arts gallery Objects Art and More and the quirky Red Fish Gallery and a trip to the Steamboat Era Museum where, for years, my kids (OK, my husband) looked forward to getting their very own plastic Steamboat Era-hard hat. 

Though it diverges slightly from the slow, old-timey feel of the vacation as a whole, my kids are usually able to successfully lobby for an afternoon at the new Compass Entertainment Complex, which is home to an absurdly comfortable (fully reclining leather seats) six-theater cinema, minigolf, go-karts, batting cage, and arcade—I somehow manage to have buckets of fun there despite my motherly preference for quiet, boring things.

Cycling around the area on bikes rented from Windswept Experience & Supply Co. is always part of the agenda, and later this year, Lancaster County’s TriWay Trail will chart a 9.5-mile route that connects Kilmarnock, Irvington, and White Stone, with fun stops along the way. The trail, supported by state and federal grants and local investors, is part of an effort to improve accessibility for locals while creating a draw for outdoors-loving tourists like me.

Set Sail on the Rappahannock

You didn’t come to the Rappahannock River to spend all your time on dry land. When visiting this part of the world, it’s essential to spend some time on the water, and Sweet Sea Charters is the best way to do it. Sweet Sea Charters owner Capt. Morgan Fraczkowski offers three- and six-hour sailing adventures, custom charters, and sailing lessons for a unique, custom experience on the Chesapeake Bay. “At Sweet Sea Charters, we offer it all, whether it’s a lively, fun sail or a slower, more peaceful experience,” says Faczkowski. “We follow our guests’ pace, creating experiences that can be as adventurous or as therapeutic as they need.” Fraczkowski has partnered with Devin and Kati Rose of Adrift to include curated menus for sailing expeditions so you can snack while you sail. “With locally curated food on board, you’re not just eating, you’re dining right on the bay,” says Faczkowski. “It doesn’t get better than that.”

From Oyster Bars to Elevated Dining

And then there’s the food. If you were expecting a land of fried seafood buckets, you’ll be surprised by the availability of thoughtful, locally sourced food in Irvington. Adrift, a seasonal New American restaurant in nearby White Stone with a revolving menu and killer cocktails, is worth making a reservation for their artfully composed plates or one, dare I say, perfect cheeseburger and an ice cream sundae. 

If you’re looking for a more traditional take on seafood, head to Dredge, where you’ll find all the steamer platters your heart desires. There’s nothing quite like eating seafood right on the water, and for that, a visit to the Rappahannock River Oysters outpost, Merroir, in Topping (a lovely 20-minute drive or boat ride from Irvington) for oysters on the half shell and the legendary Stuffin’ Muffin is non-negotiable. 

Recently, the Tides Inn has undergone some notable renovations, including the introduction of Salt & Meadow, a dining concept led by Chef de Cuisine Kyle Perkins that prioritizes local products from producers like Steamboat Wharf Oyster Co., Miss Mary Seafood, and Locksley Estate Farmstead. Whether or not I’m actually staying at the Tides, I like to make my way there at least once for Perkins’ delectable caramelized onion and crab bisque.

Stocking Up for Your Stay

If you need to stock up on provisions for your stay, check out Livi’s Market, a gourmet convenience store and gas station with a delightful selection of trendy snacks, unexpected ingredients, and super cute gifts. “We’ve curated Livi’s to be a one-stop shop for visitors who are looking to make the most of their time here in Irvington,” says Livi’s co-owner, Livi Justis. “It’s exciting for us to source and find new products that we get to introduce our customers to.” For fresh, local produce and seafood, stop by Kellum Farms, Old Farm Truck Market, or the immensely charming market and nursery, Dug In Farms. And if you’re in town on the first Saturday morning of the month, load up your market basket at the Irvington Farmers Market, a volunteer-run market with over 80 vendors.

Whether you’re drawn by the promise of fresh oysters and waterfront dining, the tranquil pace of river life, or the chance to explore by sail or bike, Irvington offers the perfect antidote to our hurried world. This sleepy riverside town may have fewer than 500 residents, but it delivers outsized charm and countless ways to reconnect with what matters most. Pack light, leave your schedule at home, and prepare to fall under the spell of this Rappahannock River gem—just don’t be surprised if you find yourself planning your return visit before you’ve even left.

This article originally appeared in the October 2025 issue.